The faint-hearted walker approaches his fatherland,
The sun's rays hid behind the mountains,
More and more the night descends to the ground,
The people sink into the arms of a silent dream,
The fields and groves are already burdened with drowsiness –
But he finds no peace;
He stares ahead of him constantly at night,
He rushes on and on with a quick step.

Karel Hynek Mácha, The Pilgrim

The annual great summer Mácha pilgrimage is inspired by Karel Hynek Mácha's journey from Prague to Sněžka in 1833. I know Mácha's "Part One of the Plan of the Journey to the Krkonoše Mountains from Prague" up to Třebihoště, the rest of the route is derived from Mácha's notebook, correspondence and secondary sources. The probable date of Mácha's pilgrimage to the Krkonoše Mountains, including the journey back to Prague, was August 19 - September 6, 1833.

The August Great Pilgrimage of the Pilgrim Association has traditionally taken place since 2005 in the second half of August (a total of eleven such journeys have taken place so far). This year, we are organizing two big August journeys practically on the same date: the classic Pilgrimage of the Giant Mountains from Prague to Sněžka (contact Vladimír Drábek) and the journey from the Rychleby Mountains to Sněžka (contact Jiří Zemánek), which is part of this year's Wandering University of Nature at the Rychleby Ecocenter. The journey from the Rychleby Mountains will start on Saturday, August 15 at 2 p.m. in Račí údolí near Tančírny. The route, which leads through Kralický Sněžník, is approximately 230 km long. A day later, the traditional Pilgrimage of the Giant Mountains will start from Prague to Sněžka, with a walk through Prague's Máchov sites.

We will meet for the classic pilgrimage on Sunday, August 16 at 8:30 a.m. at Vyšehrad in front of the Church of St. Peter and Paul at the entrance to the Vyšehrad Cemetery and walk through Prague's Mácha sites. We will spend the night in Prague and the next day, August 17, at 6 a.m. we will meet at Karlovo náměstí at house no. 34, where house no. 551 used to stand, where Karel Hynek Mácha lived and from where he set out on his Krkonoše Pilgrimage on August 19, 1833. There is a Mácha memorial plaque on the house. Those who do not want to get up so early in the morning have the opportunity to join us during the journey around Prague, for example around 9 a.m. at the Prosek metro station. Both mentioned pilgrimages will end on August 25 and 26 at Sněžka. If Mácha keeps his protective hand over us, then perhaps we will meet together on Sněžka.

Both routes are further described in detail in the time scenarios.

Hiking from the Rychlebské Mountains to Králický Sněžník and from Králický Sněžník to Sněžka here.

Contacts: Jiří Zemánek 777 117 466, Vladimír Drábek 602 646 665

Karlovo náměstí (formerly Dobytčí trh), where Karel Hynek Mácha lived in his parents' house at house no. 551 (near the Church of St. Ignatius); in the famous "difficult chamber" where he wrote his "Máj".

DAY 1 — SUNDAY, AUGUST 16

Prague (8 km)

a walk through the Máchov sites, Vyšehrad Cemetery – Týn

We will meet at 8:30 in front of the Church of St. Peter and Paul at the entrance to the Vyšehrad Cemetery. First, we will walk through the cemetery, stop at the grave of Mácha and the graves of people related to him, and try to say which of them he might have met. Then we will go through the text of Mácha Pilgrimages in the Krkonoše Mountains and let's talk about its history.

… Countless numbers of living monks flocked to all sides of the mountain; and I walked to the cemetery to see the graves of the deceased monks; and as I turned aside, wanting to quickly avoid the rolling crowd, the living shadows flew after me; and I jumped to the other side, and again the shadows rolled after me; I turned back, and here the shadows followed me:

And one of them spoke: "You avoid us in vain, the breezes that follow you, force us after you; remain standing, and the lightest wind will drive us along the face of the mountain around you." I remained standing; the monks flocked to the edge of the mountain, longing to descend the path; many threw themselves down the cliffs that towered above the landscape, their eyes, inflamed with inexpressible desire, looked beyond the dark mountains, but the wind, rushing from all sides, always gathered them on the mountaintop. The sun was setting, late evening was approaching; the breeze blew from the valleys, and a holy silence spread over the wide landscape; the day of the life of shadows had come. … Written on January 14, 1833

(from Mácha's Literary Notebook – A Dream that is a Prefiguration of the Pilgrimage of the Krkonoše Mountains)

Then we will go down to the embankment, walk to Petřín, Újezd, Kampa, Charles Bridge, Old Town, and end in Týn. We will visit a total of 21 places and look for connections between places and Karel Hynek Mácha. We will also stop at two cafes - Dobrá trafica and the Týnská literární kafárna, which Mácha would probably have visited if they had existed at the time. The walk is planned to last until about 3 p.m. We will show other Mácha places in Prague on Monday during our own Krkonoše pilgrimage.

The actual itinerary of the "Krkonoše pilgrimage":

DAY 2 — MONDAY, AUGUST 17

Prague – Neratovice (32 km)

We will follow in the footsteps of Mácha's path, while also knowing where Mácha could be going at the moment. The route of the journey changes slightly every year. During the journey, it is possible to decide between a longer and shorter route every day, so that everyone can find their own way and manage the journey according to their abilities. The entire route of the journey is 230 - 260 km long, approximately 17 - 32 km each day.

"Outerý. From Prague at four o'clock in the morning on August 20, 1833..."

Karel Hynek Mácha / Part of the first plan for a trip to the Giant Mountains

We will meet at 6 am in the morning on Karlovo náměstí at house no. 34, where Karel Hynek Mácha lived. We will cross Petrské Square along the Vltava River through Karlín to Liben. We will pass by the places where he lived Bohumil Hrabal. We will continue past Podvinný mlýn up the hill to Prosek. We will be at the exit of the Prosek metro station on Vysočanská Street around 9 am. Latecomers can join here. From there we will head via Letňany to Čakovice to Čakovice Castle, where we will be around 10:30 am (BUS 136, 351, 377 from the Letňany metro station, Čakovice Castle station); here is another option to join. Here we will read Mácha's plan for the Krkonoše Pilgrimage. We will then keep east of the original route of Mácha's Way, which today is the road leading to Štěpánovský přívoz. This route is an example of how it is still possible to walk from Prague to the open countryside in a northeasterly direction. From Čakovice Castle we will set off along the cycle path to Třeboradice, where we will stop at the Maximum restaurant for lunch - around 11:30 am. We will continue through Hovorčovice and from there along the path to Měšice Castle, where he worked for the Nostice family at the end of the 18th century. Josef DobrovskyWe will see the castle and the park.

We will follow the path along the track to the golf course in Zlonín and continue along the track to the Předboj crossroads and from there turn right to the Na Kozici hill and then along the path to the church of St. Vitus in Kojetice. From there we will follow the green trail to Lobkovice. Here we will see tomb of František Palacký and The stone book Dedicated to Palacký by Kurt Gebauer.

In the morning we met with Mr. Palacký at the Pospíšils; there we disagreed on the subject of poetry; he says of me, "that I have an excellent imagination and that I paint excellently, but the fault with my main works is that they do not reveal a certain necessity of the idea". I do not understand him, because I believe that in each of my poems the idea is as developed as possible. …

from Mácha's diary / September 25, 1835

I love a flower because it withers, an animal – because it goes; –
a person who thinks he will die and not exist, because he feels that he will perish forever;
I love, – more than I love – I submit to God, because – there is no. …

from Mácha's notebook

Then we continue to Neratovice and along Edvarda Beneš Street to the sculpture group. Lenka Klodová I Love You, where we will read from Mácha's May and end the first day of our journey here. We will spend the night here, and for dinner we will go to the nearby restaurant Originál 1869 sklenkő. (distance from Prosek: 22 km.)

DAY 3 — TUESDAY, AUGUST 18

Neratovice – Harasov (26 km)

In the morning we will set off in Neratovice along Dr. E. Beneše Street and then along 28. října Street, Masaryková Street and Nádražní Street to the railway bridge, where we will cross the Elbe River. We will reach the Blaník – Říp pilgrimage route. We will follow it to the Kly outdoor gym and from there we will set off along the right bank of the Elbe River along the 2. Labská cycle path and then along the green path to the Mělník Chateau. We will have lunch in Mělník and continue along the red marked path. Macha's way.

Behind the Mělník railway station we will look at the garden where the poet lived Kamil Bednar and after that we will go up Chloumek to the chapel of St. John (... from Mělník to St. John on the Hill – from the route plan). From here we will continue along the red Mácha trail past the Lhotka and Štampach ponds to the Harasov pond, where we will have dinner in a bistro. We will spend the night at the pond, which is perfect for night swimming.

DAY 4 — WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 19

Harasov – Houska (23 km)

After a morning swim in the Harasov pond, we continue along the red-marked Mácha path to the Kokořínské Valley. Here we turn off along the green path to Kokořín Castle and on Mácha's RockAfter visiting the castle, we will follow the green trail to the remarkable rock castle. We don't, which served as a shelter during the Thirty Years' War. From here we will continue to the ruins of the former rich Baroque estate New yard, where Mácha's contemporary was born more than two hundred years ago, poet Václav Bolemír Nebeský. We will return to the green again and then follow the blue to the red-marked Máchova cesta. Through Vojtěchov we will reach the restaurant in Ráji, where we will have lunch. We will continue along the red. Then we will turn onto the blue Houska Castle and to the viewpoint of Říp. We will return along the same path and follow the red path to the pub at the end of the sil, where we will have dinner. We will spend the night here or we will continue along the red path and spend the night after about 3 km in the forest. 

 Sleepless, we walked through the incredibly beautiful valley to Houska. Sandy cliffs covered here and there with firs, spruces and other conifers stood on our right, on the left, uphill, black forests, a spring stream roared in the middle, and here and there a village.

Macha's Literary Notebook

DAY 5 — THURSDAY, AUGUST 20

Houska – Zvířetice (30.5 km)

From the tavern at the end of our strength, we will set off along the Mácha path along the red trail through the village of Žďár to the foothills of the castle. Bezdez. From here we will climb the castle and read Macha's Evening at Bezdez and then we will have lunch at a local restaurant near Vejra. We will continue along the red road to Bélé pod Bezdězem. Here we buy food for the evening and sit in the park on the square by the monument to Karel Hynek Mácha. Then we walk to the end of the town, where we change to the blue one, which will take us to Bitouchov; there is usually an open pub here. From there we will reach the castle ruins Animal, where in the evening, if the stars are in our favor, we will meet with the Máchov researcher Mr. Miroslav KolocWe will sleep in the castle ruins.

On Bezdězí. Clouds above me like flocks of lambs, but behind the mountains a thick black cloud, darker than the shadows of the dark sky above. The wind was blowing here and there the already yellowed leaves. …

Macha's Literary Notebook

DAY 6 — FRIDAY, AUGUST 21

Zvířetice – Vyskeř (32 km, alternative: 25 km)

In the morning we will cross the footbridge over the Jizera River and reach the ferry, which is associated with the memory of Mácha. Then we will go over the bridge to Malá Bělá and further through Nová Ves and the Golden Path of the Bohemian Paradise to the Račov National Nature Monument with its moorland meadows and wetland alders. We will walk past the spring of St. Prokop through the Klokočka field to the Maníkovice castle. Here we will turn right onto the cycle path 17 Greenway Jizera and continue along the MHC to Mácha's favorite Valečov rock castle. We will continue along the nature trail Příhrazské rocks past the Hospůdka na Zásadka to the settlement of Mužský to the Krásná vyhlídka. Then we will follow the red trail along the Golden Trail of the Bohemian Paradise to Příhraz; from there, follow the yellow trail to the Podvyskeřský mlýn crossroads and then the blue trail to The Vyskeri, where we will spend the night near a restaurant (where we can hide from the rain). Alternative route: from Zvířice via Bakov and in Veselá connect to the route to Valečov. This route is 7 km shorter.

Already from mountain to mountain the shadow of the cloud – a huge bird’s long wing – has covered the far night’s lap, and in the vast distance the darkness is sheer. Hear! Behind the mountains a sweet voice has penetrated the dark night, the forest trumpet in the nighttime introduces gentle music. … Karel Hynek Mácha, May

DAY 7 — SATURDAY, AUGUST 22

Vyskeř – Jičín / Wallenstein Loggia (30 km, alternative: 26 km)

We will climb the Stations of the Cross to the chapel on Vyskeř (466 m above sea level) and from there we will continue along the blue path to Hrubá skála and then along the red path to the Vidlák restaurant. An alternative is to follow cycle path no. 14 to Pekařská brána and then along the Podtrosecká údolí nature trail to the Vidlák restaurant. This route is 3 km shorter and you can swim in the Věžický pond along the way. We will then continue along the red path to Debris, where we will have lunch. From Trosky on the green and then on the red route through Mladějov to the rock castle Pařez. From there on the red route through Prachov Rocks and then blue on Chin; the alternative is to follow the green and yellow trails outside the Prachovské Skály – this route is one kilometer shorter and less hilly. From Brad we will follow the blue and green trails to Dílce and then along a dirt road to Zebina and after red until Wallenstein Loggia; an alternative is to follow the blue path through Kbelnice, where you can have dinner at the U Rumcajse pub; then follow the yellow path, from the crossroads at the Bílé mlýn follow the blue path and below Zebín turn onto the red path. The path is half a kilometer longer. There will be a public screening in the Wallenstein Loggia from 7:00 PM Karel Čtveráček's film Pilgrimage of the Giant Mountains with a subsequent discussion. We will spend the night in the loggia.

…The walker, having reached his goal, lays down his staff,
He wipes the dust from his feet – the pilgrimage is complete;
in a narrow slumbering bed
then it weighs down the eyes that are tired. …

Karel Hynek Mácha / Night

DAY 8 — SUNDAY, AUGUST 23

Wallenstein Loggia / Jičín – Studenec (26 km)

In the morning we will set off from the Wallenstein Loggia along the road past the Carthusian monastery. Valdice (today's prison) to Studenyanwhere we pass the dwelling Josef Váchal and on until RadimHere in the local cemetery we will search for the grave of Mácha's greatest friend in life Jan Benes (there is also the grave of Josef Váchal).

Beneš !!, …. – You are a man! I am – – – – a man, – you walk on earth, my path leads through hell. – Who will go with me – -. Every century will probably find only one such unfortunate person as me, if there were more of them, there would be no God. …

letter from Mácha to his friend Jan Beneš from around 1833

From Radim we will go to Dřevěnice and then along the yellow and green paths past Jiráňov Mlýn to Úslavice and along the blue cycle path to New PaksWe will have lunch here and possibly visit Jeweler with media drawings and precious stones. From Nová Paka we will take the green route through the former monastery around the Vrchovina reservoir to the Na veselce saddle and from there along the cycle path to Levínská Olešnice. From Levínská Olešnice we will take the red route and continue along the cycle path to Studenec. We will pass this by a side road to the Na špici pub, which is only open until 4:00 PM, which we probably won't make it. We will spend the night in the forest above Studenec.

DAY 9 — MONDAY, AUGUST 24

Studenec – Rovinka-Krkonoše Mountains (17 km)

We will go down to the red one and then to Horni Branna, where you can buy things in the shop and have breakfast here. In Horní Branná there is a monument to Jan Ámos Comenius. We will walk through Horní Branná to Valteřice and from there we will take the blue trail to the foot of the Krkonoše Mountains and then the yellow trail to the top Sad (1018 m above sea level). We will have lunch here and climb to the lookout tower. Following the red trail we will reach Flat, where refreshments are open until 6:00 PM. We will sleep here and in the forest. Before that, we will have dinner and finish our beer in peace.

…The walker, having reached his goal, lays down his staff,
He wipes the dust from his feet – the pilgrimage is complete;
in a narrow slumbering bed
then it weighs down the eyes that are tired. …

Karel Hynek Mácha / Night

DAY 10 — TUESDAY, AUGUST 25

Rovinka – Sněžka (23 km; alter. 21 km)

From Rovinka we will continue along the ridge on the red trail to Černá skála (1038 m above sea level) and then to Mosswood (1074 m above sea level) and Horní Mísečky, from where we descend along the red trail to Spindleruv Mlyn, where we will have lunch. If we go down to Špindlerův Mlýn along the cycle path, the journey is 2 km shorter. From Špindlerův Mlýn we will take the green to the blue and through the White Labe Valley to Meadow hut and further to Sněžka, where in House of Slaski We will sleep over (dinner is served until 7 pm), or we will try to sleep over on Sněžka (1,602 nm). We will climb Sněžka at sunset. Here we will probably meet Jirka Zemánek's group, which will travel to Sněžka from the Jeseníky Mountains.

Note: Accommodation in the Polish Silesian House can be booked in advance. Interested parties can book on their own or request a joint reservation by emailing drabekvladimir00@gmail.com by the end of July.

From the testimony of Božena Hindlová, we know that Mácha and his friend Eduard Hindl visited Jan Beneš in Radim for the feast on Sunday, August 25; they probably left Radim for the Giant Mountains on Monday, August 26, and reached the summit of Sněžka on August 28, which is confirmed by the entry in the chronicle on Sněžka. Mácha's drawing of the panorama of the Giant Mountains, drawn from Mechovinec, is the only evidence that Mácha was there and how he went to Sněžka.

DAY 11 — WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 26

Sněžka – Pec pod Sněžkou (9 km)

We climb at sunrise on Snow White (1602 m above sea level) where we read from Pilgrimages in the Krkonoše MountainsFrom the top of Sněžka we descend along the blue Giant MineWe will try to have breakfast in the related Bouda pod Sněžkou and continue to Furnaces under Sněžkou and from there we will return to Prague by bus.

… It was a cold night; through a narrow cleft between the mountains the pilgrim was making his way down the mountains with a feeble step. Opposite him stood Snow White in all her height, on her snow-covered peak now stood only a solitary cross; the full moon was just looking over it into the cleft, so that it seemed to be divided into four equal parts by the cross. “Good night, good night!” whispered the exhausted pilgrim in a weak voice. …

Karel Hynek Mácha: / Pilgrimage in the Krkonoše Mountains

The Chapel of St. Lawrence in the time of Karel Hynek Mácha was also intended for accommodation and food for pilgrims. Currently, there is no official accommodation on Sněžka. Theoretically, you can sleep outside, but the temperatures and wind on Sněžka make it quite risky. It is possible to ask the Polish side to sleep in the chapel corridor, but the capacity is only up to about 6 people.

Notice

If you do not go with us for the entire journey, you can join us anywhere, preferably at the main points of the route (Mělník, Houska, Jičín (Wallenstein Loggia), Nová Paka, Špindlerův Mlýn, etc.) and go with us for as long as you want. We do not provide accommodation in advance. We sleep under the open sky, under the stars. If you want to insure your accommodation, please book it yourself. The exception is the overnight stay under Sněžka in the Silesian House. Everyone is free to travel and is responsible for themselves. We only ask for tolerance towards other pilgrims.

Bus departures from Pec pod Sněžkou to Prague (Černý most) on August 26

at 10:20 or 11:37 with a transfer in Vrchlabí (at 11:50 or 14:00)

More information

Vladimir Drabek

drabekvladimir00@gmail.com
602 646 665

Martin Vydra

martin.vydra@vzp.cz
731 546 223

I believe that a lot of good would come from a change in attitude if tourists became pilgrims again.

Rupert Sheldrake